A Physically-Based Model of Fabric Drape

Muthu Govindaraj, Associate Professor, School of Textiles and Materials Technology.



Figure 1

Nature of the problem

Fabrics are complex mechanisms of interwoven threads that are themselves mechanisms of twisted fibers. Drape is a property of fabrics associated with the aesthetic appearance of garments and other textile structures. Fabric drape can be defined as a description of the deformation of the fabric produced by gravity when only part of it is directly supported. This is the case in many applications where fabrics are used. A garment, for example a skirt, is in contact with the body only at some places. Most of the rest of the skirt falls gracefully and forms smooth folds. This characteristic is perhaps what distinguishes a fabric from other materials. Therefore, the simulation of fabric drape is an interesting problem and will have many uses, including computer-aided apparel design.

There have been several attempts since the mid-eighties to model fabric drape. These include the application of continuum mechanics and finite element methods, as well as modeling fabric as a mechanism based on its structure. Since frictional forces between the fibers and the threads give the fabric mechanism a stable structure, it may be advantageous to model fabrics at the microstructure level.

Practical considerations, however, show that such micromodeling of fabric is not realizable for various reasons. Even though some work has been done on the micromechanics of fabrics, the properties of the microstructure are not well known, neither can they be experimentally determined at this time. Also, to represent fabrics realistically, a microstructure model would have to contain a large number of elements or particles. This would make the calculations reach enormous levels to solve at the present computational capabilities in any reasonable amount of time.

The problem involved in modeling fabrics is now well understood, even though proper solutions are not yet available. Fabrics undergo large deformations for small applied forces. This differentiates fabrics from other sheet materials. In most sheet materials, computer simulation is confined to the study of the buckling of the materials. In fabrics, however, the simulation will have to account for the shape assumed by the fabric when it attains an equilibrium and comes to its final shape.

Shell Theory and Finite Element Method

Finite element method is a way of subdividing a system into its individual components or `elements,' whose behavior is readily understood, and then rebuilding the original system from such components to study its behavior. In the study of fabric deformations, large displacements must be considered. Fabrics also bend about two normal axes simultaneously. In this respect, fabrics are different from some other materials which, when bent, undergo stiffening.

For any large deformation problem, the non-linearity due to a change in the geometry of the body has to be considered in order to obtain a correct solution. Instead of the one-step solution found in linear problems, the non-linear problem is usually solved iteratively. The loads are applied incrementally to the system, and at each step, the equilibrium equation:

[K] {Delta q} = {Delta f} (1)

is solved by the Newton-Raphson method. The non-linearity is handled by calculating the stiffness matrix [K] in each step as a function of the displacement vector {q}. Because during the intermediate steps, the fabric is no longer a plate, shell elements are used in the formulation.

Various shell theory and finite element formulations have been developed during the past several years. The simplest one is to treat shells as an assembly of plates. This approach has been used by some earlier researchers. In this approach, a superposition of stretching and bending of the plates was used to represent shell behavior, thus avoiding the difficulties associated with geometry. However, this approach excluded the coupling of stretching and bending within the elements. The link between in-plane membrane deformation and out-of-place bending deformation cannot be ignored in the case of textile materials.

Other researchers took the classical shell theory approach, which regarded the shell as an inextensible one-director Cosserat surface. This surface is defined by a middle plane of a shell element and a unit vector at each point of the surface. The objective is a precise formulation of the local balance laws, the local constitutive equations, and the weak form of the momentum equations in a manner suitable for numerical analysis and finite element implementation. Because the resultant form is carried out analytically, it is much more mathematically complicated and computationally intensive.

We use the degenerated solid approach, which has the same underlying hypothesis as the classical shell theory, but the reduction to resultant form is carried out numerically. This approach is more conducive to numerical implementation.

The kinematics of the shell theory consist of measuring membrane strain on the reference surface from the derivatives of x with respect to the position on the surface, and the bending strain from the derivatives of normal n. The strain measures that are used for this purpose are approximations to Koiter-Sanders Theory strains. The transverse shear strains are measured as the change in the projections of n onto the shell's reference surface. The change in the shell's thickness caused by deformation is neglected.

Input parameters for the model

The input to the model are the Young's modulus, the shear modulus, and Poisson's ratio. The latter is the ratio of the percentage reduction in width as compared to the percentage extension. Woven textile fabrics consist of two sets of threads intersecting each other at right angles. Thus fabric can be treated as an orthotropic medium. Accordingly, the Young's modulus values are given in the model for the two thread directions. Experimentally determined values of fabric parameters were used in the models.



Simulation

Figure 1 shows the simulation of a 30 centimeter square fabric drape over a 12 centimeter square surface. A nine node, doubly curved shell element with five degrees of freedom per node is used in the simulation. The portion of the fabric in contact with the table is fully constrained. This means that the elements in contact with the table have no degrees of freedom. The images are ray-traced to show the folds. The six stages of draping show the development of the double curvature, charac-teristic of fabric drape.

The fabric is a typical suiting fabric made of polyester textured yarns in warp and weft. Besides the visual similarity exhibited by the model and the actual fabric, the measured values of deformation at the edges and at intermediate points on the actual fabric correlated well with the model values.


Figure 2


The usefulness of the model is further illustrated in Figure 2. A series of simulations were done with increasing stiffness of the fabric in one of the thread (warp) directions to study the effect on drape. The shear modulus and Poisson's ratio were kept the same for all simulations. The effect of increasing stiffness is clearly seen. A comparison of the simulations clearly shows the effect of increasing orthotropy on drape.

The simulations we discussed so far are for fabric drape over a fixed flat surface. In these cases, the portion of the fabric that is in contact with the surface is fixed during draping and no force transfer between the fabric and the surface takes place. In real draping situations, as in apparel, the fabric is draped over arbitrary surfaces. No prior knowledge exists of which portion of the fabric will be in contact with the body after draping. This amounts to letting a fabric free fall, meet an object, and drape. There will be some interaction forces between the fabric and the rigid surface.

The same flexible shell theory and finite element formulation with appropriate Lagrange multiplier techniques were used to simulate the drape of fabric over a sphere. We assume the sphere as a rigid surface with negligible friction between the fabric and the surface. The simulation of a 30 cm x 30 cm size fabric, draped over a sphere of 10 cm diameter, is shown in Figure 3. A photograph of an actual fabric draped similarly is shown in Figure 4. For an animation of fabric drape click here.






Figure 3 Figure 4

Acknowledgments

This work was supported in part by a grant from the Agriculture Experiment Station, Ithaca, NY, grant number 329-403. Finite element modeling was done using ABAQUSreg. on Cornell Theory Center resources. We would like to acknowledge the support of the visualization group at the Cornell Theory Center, especially Catherine Devine, who was responsible for the rendering of the models using IBM's DataExplorer software.


Publications:
Chen, B., and Govindaraj, M. 'A Parametric Study of Fabric Drape', Textile Research Journal, 66(1), 16-23, 1996

Chen, B., and Govindaraj, M. 'A Physically-Based Model of Fabric Drape Using Flexible Shell Elements', Textile Research Journal. 65 (6), 324-330, 1995.

Copyright 1995 by Muthu Govindaraj and Bijian Chen. All Rights Reserved.
Last updated April 1996 . For info: (mgraj@aol.com ).